The Bay of Islands

Hello Friends!

Our visit to the Bay of Islands was filled with sunshine which was a most welcome sight after weeks of rainy weather.  Steeped in Maori culture, this area is one of New Zealand's really special places filled with 140 subtropical islands, pristine beaches, scuba diving & snorkeling as well as big game fishing.  Not quite warm enough for us to go snorkeling or diving, we took a boat trip to learn about the area and view the famous hole in the rock.   Along the way, we were treated to sightings of NZ fur seals and several pods of dolphins.  We counted 4 baby dolphins swimming along with their mums and learned that baby dolphins always have a nearby auntie dolphin to help out when needed.   It was a picture perfect day.

Postcard worthy views in every direction

Hole in the rock doesn't look that big until......

The skipper drives our big catamaran right through it

Zane Grey, the American author of western adventure novels, fished here in 1920

The town of Paihia where we stayed is also next to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds.  This most important historical site is where the Maori tribes first agreed to become the United Tribes Nation which was recognized by the Crown.  But the more important treaty that was struck and signed in Waitangi was a document that would begin the gradual destruction of the Maori peoples.  After much debate, the tribes agreed to become a colony of the British Empire.  But their understanding of the document was that the tribal chiefs would remain in power of their own people and lands.  There were indeed two different documents drafted, one in Maori and one in English with the latter version giving the Crown powers to mostly do as it pleased.  Like so many of the native cultures impacted by colonization, the relentless usurping of land and livelihood reduced many of the Maori tribes to poverty and dysfunction.  

However, the Maori appear to be gaining ground in many important ways.  Maori culture is deeply intertwined with the current New Zealand culture.  Language, political representation and cultural practices are a part of being a Kiwi in a much larger way than Native American culture shows up in the US. One example of this is the haka which is a type of ceremonial Māori dance or challenge. Haka are usually performed in a group and typically represent a display of a tribe's pride, strength and unity. Actions include foot-stamping, tongue protrusions and rhythmic body slapping to accompany a loud chant.  We have seen haka done at sporting events, memorials for police officers, by young school children honoring their ancestors as well as by politicians at funerals.  This important ritual glues people from all walks of life together here in NZ.  We are told that much of this integration progress has been made only in the past 20 years or so, but it is indeed progress.

The flag of the United Nations of New Zealand

A sacred meeting house.  

 

A warrior demonstrates his approach to determine if we are friends or foe

The Maori cultural performance was educational and thought provoking

The world's largest ceremonial war canoe is 35 meters long and needs a minimum of 76 paddlers

The spot where the treaty was signed radiates whanua -  a Maori word to describe physical, emotional & spiritual essence. 

Another treat we had during our stay at the Bay was meeting our neighbors Keiko and Chris.  They are from California and like us have been hanging out in New Zealand during the pandemic.  But these two are real pros at being globe trotters.  They have just started their 3rd year of roaming the world and have visited more than 30 countries already.  A couple of young whip smart techies, they can work from wherever they please while exploring the globe.  It was fun to spend time with these two remarkable people as they shared key learnings about traveling through places like Egypt and Argentina.  Naturally, we discussed travel plans and the unknown of visa extensions here in NZ.  They are trying to get to the UK for a change of pace but international flights are pretty iffy at the moment.  So our little circle of US friends here in NZ has grown to six. It is fun to have a few contacts and we are scheming on how to get together again.

Next stop takes us to an ancient sacred tree and black sand beaches.  Stay well mates!

Cheryl & Dan